Living Green Slow Food
Jessica Capets Chevalier

Slow Food – one feisty Italian journalist’s rebellion against fast food that began in Italy in 1989 – has developed into a global movement and philosophy of food that incorporates health, environmental stewardship and tradition. The Slow Food movement has made its way to Chattanooga and its presence can be found in local organic farms, farmers markets, grocery store aisles, restaurant fare and homes throughout our city.

Slow Food is founded on the concept of eco-gastronomy – a recognition of the strong connections between plate and planet. By creating an awareness of the life cycle of food, the movement aims to inform consumers – called “co-producers” in the Slow Food world – about how food is produced and to support those who produce it.

In direct opposition to fast food, the Slow Food movement supports what it calls “good, clean and fair food.” This means food should taste good; it should be produced in a clean way that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or our health; and that food producers should receive fair compensation for their work.

“Slow Food does not mean that you have to cook every single meal you eat, or that you have to know exactly where every single food item comes from – that’s not very realistic in today’s fast-paced society,” says Trish King, leader of Chattanooga’s chapter of Slow Food USA. “But the benefits of making just a few small changes – buying more good, clean and fair food; choosing to eat at restaurants that do the same; taking time when you can to prepare and enjoy food with your friends and family – are far-reaching in many aspects of our community.”

Slow Food member Julian Kaufman, a personal trainer and owner of Fitness Together on Frazier Avenue in Chattanooga, elaborates, “If something is good, clean and fair, it is that way for all people in all places. Food is a moral choice.” Kaufman, a first-generation American from
Italy, spent his first 14 summers on his family’s Italian farm plowing their fields, harvesting the fruits of their labors, then preparing and sharing the foods with the larger community family. He says that the mission of Slow Food runs deep in his heart as a result of these childhood experiences.

Slow Food, which has the sheer pleasure of good food at the heart of its philosophy, is tackling all aspects of food in America and the world today. Their goals include sustaining seed banks and preserving heirloom fruits and vegetables; preserving traditional food products, cuisine and traditions; supporting small-scale food processing and family farms; educating consumers about the risks of fast food, agribusiness, monoculture crops and factory farms; lobbying for the inclusion of organic farming concerns within agricultural policy; lobbying against genetic engineering and the use of pesticides; and promoting ethical buying in marketplaces.

Michael Pollan, a best-selling author whose groundbreaking books about food include In Defense of Food and The Omnivore’s Dilemma, says about Slow Food: “I’ve come to think that Slow Food might actually have a serious contribution to make to the debate over environmentalism and globalism … Pleasure is at the very heart of their movement, which is dedicated to the proposition that the best way to defend the planet’s cultural and biological diversity is to enjoy it at the table, slowly.”

Chattanooga has a growing group of farms, markets and restaurants that have adopted Slow Food’s philosophy and approach to food. TasteBuds, a new guide to finding, buying and eating locally grown food in the Chattanooga area was recently published to help create general access to fresh food. The publication offers information about farmers in the area, restaurants that prepare and serve local ingredients, and farmers markets and grocery stores that sell local produce. TasteBuds is available free of charge at Crabtree Farms and the Chattanooga Market or can be accessed online at www.tastebudsguide.org.

According to Crabtree Farms, a re-search and educational farm project promoting sustainable agriculture, in addition to the health benefits of eating fresh locally produced food, buying food from local producers ensures:

• You are getting fresh food that is in-season and has not traveled long distances.

• You are limiting your carbon footprint by limiting transportation of food, saving oil and reducing greenhouse gases. On average, food travels 1,300 miles from farm to table, and can generally take 7 to 14 days.

• You are supporting local businesses with your dollars, helping to grow the Chattanooga economy.

• Farmers earn more of the food dollar. On agerage, after all costs associated with growing and transporting foods, farmers receive less than 10 percent of the food dollar.

Chattanooga’s Slow Food chapter is working to bring healthier food choices to school cafeterias, as well. Tom Montague, founder of Slow Food Chattanooga and governor of the Southeast region of Slow Food USA, says the organization’s Time for Lunch campaign is an example of Slow Food’s efforts to unite idealism and practical action. Time for Lunch is a direct response to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s prediction that the generation of American children born since the year 2000 will be the first with shorter life expectancies than those of their parents due to childhood obesity and early-onset diabetes.

Fast food may be a little cheaper or quicker than Slow Food, but the values of the Slow Food movement cannot be denied. Purchasing food from local producers within local economies, bringing healthy food choices to all, and promoting a system of agriculture that is sustainable for the earth all support good health practices.

To learn more about Slow Food Chattanooga events or to be added to the organization’s email list, email trish.king@comcast.net. Slow Food International offers affordable memberships for individuals who seek to financially support the cause of Slow Food cuisine within the United States and abroad. Information can be found on the Slow Food website at www.slowfood.org.